Drum Summit Stave Tutorial

This stave construction method is a combination of techniques that should yield the best result with properly set-up 'consumer' grade tools. This hobbiest specific method limits some of the stave count options, but will result in much better accuracy for first attempt construction. The tutorial should be taken as a walk-through, rather than a step-by-step guide. Knowledge of woodworking techniques, tool safety and set-up is assumed. Taking the time to properly set-up and align your tools with the manufacturers instructions is necessary to ensure accuracy of your pieces. Cut enough pieces to account for wasting up to 50% of them.

Cutting & Truing

Using the stave calculator, assume some 'learning waste' in your calculations for Machining Depth and Glue Thickness variables. Set your table saw to cut the sections a good 1/4" or more than the calculations to allow truing with a flush trim bit on your router table. Use your digital micrometer to check the variance and adjust with truing passes. Your boards should be turned over lengthwise and widthwise repeatedly until they are perfectly even with each other on all dimensions.

Angle Set-up & Cutting

Your router table will serve as the angle cutter for your staves. Ensure that your table is aligned properly and that you use a quality bit for the proper angle. The fence should also be aligned perfectly to the bearing as you will not be able to use the bearing as a guide for the entire thickness of must lumber. This method also only works on 3/4" or thinner lumber. The bit shown is an 11.25 degree chamfer bit. This will result in 16 staves per shell. With the board perfectly flat, make multiple passes on each, then turn the router height up a bit for additional passes. DO NOT completely eliminate the small sliver of flat surface at the top of each board. Doing so will make the board narrower with each pass. Try to get each board's angle cut to leave a uniform 64th of an inch of flat plane at the very top of each board. If the sliver isn't uniform, you likely have a slightly warped board. Some of this can be addressed with later truing of smaller sections of staves.

Angle Progress Checking

This is what you should see as you progress through your incremental passes on the router table. Leaving 1/64" of side plane will ensure that you aren't making your staves narrower as you cut the angle.

Marking & Cutting Stave Sections

Mark your stave lengths, taking the width of your miter saw blade into account. Accurate setup and alignment of your miter saw is crucial. Only cut each longer board into about 2-3 stave sections at this point.

Final Truing & Cutting of Stave Segments

Run each 2-3 stave length past the angle cutter on the router table to further true each stave. Once this is completed, you may cut the individual stave pieces apart.

Splinter Removal, Layout & Test Fitment

Use a sanding block to remove any small splinters from each piece so that they aren't skewing alignment or spacing on your layout. Test fit the pieces and arrange them on a level surface for artistic and mechanical fitment. A mirror or piece of tempered table glass works well for this. Unlike the photos, use wax paper under your shell as you set it up to allow easy removal after gluing. You may substitute in your extra pieces where necessary to get the proper look or correct minor alignment issues. Test temporary fitment with a cotton twine tourniqet. This allows a uniform clamping force to test for gaps or angle problems. If you used quality bits, measured precisely and used properly aligned equipment, this won't be an issue. Once you have everything arranged where you want it, number each piece.

If you find that you trued your staves too thin, there are still some options. The most practical involves inserting thin pieces of a contrasting wood in between each stave in order to bring the overall diameter of the shell up. 1/16" to 1/4" pieces can be used to make up for miscut width. Each piece must still be uniform and you must insert one between each set of staves to maintain proper angles.

Gluing & Clamping

Remove each piece from the layout one at a time, apply glue and place it back into the layout. Once each piece is glued, use heavier nylon twine to create a top and bottom tourniqet. Tighten uniformly, checking alignment of each piece as you turn them tighter. Once you have tightened your twine tourniqets as much as practical, wrap the shell in adding machine tape and fit the web clamp on the shell. Taller shells should utilize 3 twine tourniqets and 2 web clamps. Tighten these well and let the shell dry untouched for 24-48 hours.

This same tutorial with large versions of the images is available here. This version is not very 'dial-up friendly'. If you want to see a larger image, just substitute 'sized' for 'thumb' in each of the image file names. We hope to soon cover methods for getting your shell rounded out. Deciding what methods to feature will have a lot to do with what tools subscribers have available. Please participate in the forum so we can gain a better understanding of the kinds of projects you would like to see.

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